Men's Beard Grooming: Trimming, Shaping and Maintenance

What does a basic beard routine look like?

A beard needs less work than it appears to, as long as the work is regular. The American Academy of Dermatology recommends washing your face and beard daily with a gentle cleanser, then patting dry and moisturising, because the skin beneath a beard can become dry, flaky and itchy.

1. Wash your face and beard with a gentle cleanser, using your fingertips to reach the skin.
2. Pat dry with a clean towel. Rubbing frizzes the hair.
3. Moisturise the skin underneath. A beard oil or balm can help soften the hair if you like the feel of one.
4. Comb the beard in the direction it grows, which trains stray hairs and shows you what needs trimming.

How should you trim a beard at home?

Trim on clean hair, and work in stages. A warm shower softens the hair first; towel it mostly dry before you judge the length. It is far easier to take off a little more than to wait for a mistake to grow back.

1. Comb everything downward so you can see the true length. Curly beards can look shorter than they are.
2. Set your trimmer guard longer than you think you need, and work down the sides first.
3. Blend the neck area slightly shorter than the jaw, so the beard does not look heavy underneath.
4. Check both sides in the mirror from the front, not just at an angle.
5. Trim the moustache last, keeping it clear of your lip.

To reduce irritation, the AAD suggests applying a shaving oil, cream or gel and cutting in the direction your hair grows, since going against the grain can cause ingrown hairs in some people.

What is beard shaping, and what is a line-up?

Trimming controls length. Shaping decides the outline: where the beard stops on the cheek, how it curves into the sideburn, and how it finishes at the neck. A line-up is the sharp edge along those lines, usually done with a trimmer or a razor.

The neckline is where most home shaping goes wrong. A helpful guide is to imagine a curve running from behind each ear to a point about two fingers above your Adam's apple. Hair below that line goes. Cutting higher than that is the most common mistake, and it makes the beard look as if it starts in the wrong place.

Which beard style should you choose?

Your growth pattern matters as much as your face shape. If your cheeks are patchy, a shorter style will hide it better than a long one. These are some of the best-known styles, and you can see photographs of them on the beard page.

How often should you trim your beard?

It depends on the length. Heavy stubble needs a trim every few days to keep it even. A medium boxed beard usually needs a tidy each week and a full shape every three to four weeks. Longer beards can go further between trims, although the neck and cheek lines still need regular attention.

What can go wrong with the skin under a beard?

Itching and flakes

New growth often itches, and dryness makes it worse. Regular washing and a moisturiser usually help. The AAD also notes that a moisturiser with SPF 30 or higher is useful in the stubble phase, when the skin is still exposed to the sun.

Ingrown hairs and bumps

Curly hair is more prone to growing back into the skin. Softening the hair first helps: the AAD advises trimming at the end of a shower or right after it.

This article is general grooming advice. If a rash, soreness or a skin problem under your beard does not settle, speak to a doctor or dermatologist.

What mistakes should you avoid?

• Cutting length while the beard is dripping wet. Wet hair looks longer, so towel it mostly dry first or you can take off more than you intended.
• Setting the neckline too high. Your beard will look smaller and your jaw less defined.
• Skipping the skin. A soft beard over dry skin will still itch.
• Blunt blades. Dull trimmers and razors pull at the hair. Keep them clean and replace blades regularly.